Parlor Guitar Buyers' Guide, from Riverboat Music^TM

There were many experiments, of course. Longer bodies, shallower bodies, deeper bodies, more strings, drone strings, and so on. But by about 1845, if you went to the store looking for a "guitar," chances are you'd come back with something like what we call a "parlor guitar" today. The name "parlor" actually became popular after bigger types were invented, because it's loud enough for the living room, but not as loud in concert venues as jumbo or dreadnought guitars.

Note: - For what we think is the internet's only accurate history of these relatively diminutive guitars, please check out our article "The Myth of 'Parlor Guitars.'"

When I was a kid during the Folk Revival, small guitars were far more common than dreadnoughts. By the early 1970s, though, the dreadnought had quite overtaken smaller guitars in popularity. The previous standard became a sort of also-ran, often lumped in with sort of "starter guitars" that were made for children who weren't big enough to play dreadnoughts.

But in recent years, there's been a revival of sorts. In part, many musicians have realized that, equipped with the best pickups and pumped into a decent PA or "acoustic amp," a well-made parlor guitar sounds almost exactly like a well-made dreadnought guitar. And it's, frankly, easier to drag around and or store. Some folks prefer what they consider a more focused tone.

Unfortunately, there is no real standard for what constitutes a parlor guitar. The name has become a sort of "catch all" description for any steel-stringed flat-top guitar that is smaller than a dreadnought or jumbo. That said, many guitars that are called "parlor guitars" today are very nice guitars, period.

Pros of Parlor Guitar as a Starter Instrument:

• Easier for smaller students to hold than dreadnought or jumbo guitars.

• If student is very young, the guitar can be equipped temporarily with nylon strings, then changed back to steel when the student is ready. (Look for "ball end" nylon strings; if you can't find those, try "silk and steel" strings.)

• A parlor guitar takes up less space than a dreadnought or jumbo.
• If it is a nice instrument, the student can keep it indefinitely, even if a bigger guitar comes along eventually.

Cons of Parlor Guitar as a Starter Instrument:

• Given the same quality, a parlor guitar is not quite as loud as dreadnought or jumbo guitars.
• In some circles, a parlor guitar generally doesn't generally have the "cool" appeal as a dreadnought, so if peer pressure is an issue. . . .

I've come back to these descriptions, pros, and cons many times since I started this project, and the more I think about it, the more I think there's a lot to be said for starting younger students out on parlor guitars (not to be confused with the so-called "starter guitars" you can buy in supermarkets every Christmas season). If they can hold the thing properly, they can grow into it without outgrowing it.

US-built or Imported?

The good news is that you can still buy professional solid-topped parlor guitars that are made in America. The other good news - for folks without a "pro" budget - is that you can get a relatively decent imported parlor guitar without spending too much money. As with all imports, if you wind up buying online, you must have someone who knows what they are doing check it out and set it up while it is still in the return period. When I've ordered off-brand import instruments online, I have to return the first one because of manufacturing defects or shipping damage about 60% of the time. When I've ordered "brand name" import instruments online, I have to return the first one about 40% of the time. When I get a good one I have to restring and set it up 100% of the time. If you don't believe me, look at the 1-star reviews for any Chinese-made instrument. Ninety percent of them are complaining either:

• That the strings are too high, or some other "problem" that simply requires a setup, but they don't know enough about the instrument to realize it, or

• That there really is something wrong with it, but by the time they figured that out, it was too late to return it.

On the other hand ninety-five per cent of the 5-star reviews are from people who know nothing about the instrument and just know it's pretty.

The reviews you need to look for are 4-star reviews from experienced players who have ordered an import just to have one to take to parties or whatever, and realize it's nearly as much fun to play as their pro instrument. Again, the first one you get may fall short of your expectations, but the next one you get may far exceed them. That's the "upside" - such as it is - of poor quality control.

Acoustic-Electric Options

The typical electronic ingredients of an acoustic-electric guitar are:

• One or more piezoelectric pickups under the bridge. A piezoelectric pickup is based on a little ceramic crystal, similar to the pickups on old record players. Basically, it picks up the same vibrations that the bridge is transmitting from the strings to the guitar face.

• Piezos don't put out a very loud signal, and they're relatively weak in the bass, so 90% of the acoustic-electric guitars you see will include a little battery-powered preamp, usually on the side of the guitar above the heel (where the neck connects to the body). All preamps restore the bass that the piezo leaves out. Most acoustic-electric guitars today have preamps that include tone or equalization controls, and some even include built-in tuners.

The tuner option, ironically, appears on beginner-oriented guitars as well as better guitars, so don't assume that a fancier preamp automatically means a better guitar.

The actual electronic components are worth $30-$50, so if you're looking at a $200 guitar, you might be able to get the electric-acoustic version of the same guitar for $230 or so. The difference many not be worth it for someone who is a total beginner, but it might be considered if the player is in any danger of playing "out" in the next year or three.

That said, if you wind up with an acoustic-only guitar and later on wish you had bought an acoustic-electric, it is possible to retrofit them. You can even buy a piezo-only setup like the one here and use an outboard preamp, which significantly reduces the amount of carving you have to do on your guitar.

Cutaway Options

Note for Reenactors - Cutaways on mass-market guitars basically didn't exist before the 1930s, and cutaways on acoustic guitars didn't become popular before the late 1970s.

So if you want to keep your options for using the guitar in a reenactment open, you should probably pass on the cutaways. If your intention is to wail on the sixteenth to eighteenth frets, you're probably looking at the wrong class of guitar anyway.

Top Options

A few manufacturers have experimented with solid mahogany tops, which aren't as loud, but are more reliable in damp conditions. Unfortunately, the look caught on, so a number of low-end guitars now have laminated tops with mahogany as the only visible layer. And yes, they are advertised as "mahogany guitars."

Another favorite is cedar, the kind of face usually reserved for classical guitars. Again, cheap classicals often have a thin cedar veneer over who-knows-what. But solid cedar is very responsive, which helps with nylon or gut strings. Don't put steel strings on a classical with a solid cedar top unless you need kindling. But a few steel-stringed parlor guitars with solid cedar tops have been made. They sound great, but the wood is soft, so if you get one, don't let your drunk buddies bang on it.

Length, Scale Length, and Number of Frets?

If you're used to big guitars like Dreadnoughts, you may find a 14-fret guitar more satisfactory. If you're used to classical guitars or just starting out, a 12-fret guitar should serve your purposes just fine.

Also, if you are small, or want to play guitar while sitting in the recliner, you may find a 12-fret guitar easier to handle.

Note for Reenactors - If you plan to take part in an 19th-century reenaction, consider a 12-fret guitar - it's more authentic. But of course, that's only one consideration, as you'll see when you get down to comparing available candidates.

Fingerboard Width

If you're used to classical, and just want a parlor to take to parties, you can probably find one with a neck you're comfortable with. If you are new to guitar, small-handed, or used to dreadnoughts or electrics, you'll probably be more comfortable if you avoid a wider neck.

What if I Want a Retro-Look?

True, the Chinese imitations are no longer built from furniture wood, and most of them have more playable necks. But an unfortunately high percentage of the under-$300 retro-looking parlor guitars have quality control issues that would have kept the US-built originals off the streets. (In fact, I just removed one that I liked personally, because so many folks have had serious problems with it.) And, like the old Kays and Harmonies they're copying, ANY under $500 guitar (and most under-$900 guitars) will all need set up to be made playable. I did include one retro guitar below that has gotten a relatively high percentage of good reviews. If you try any of the others, and you get one that's too far from playable, or has manufacturing defects, send it back and try again - the next one might be exceptionally nice - that's the "up-side" of poor quality control.

If you want retro, consider buying used. - Here's a thought, if you want a 50s-looking undersized guitar, check Craig's list for the real thing. I just found about 15 worth checking out within an 80 miles radius of my house in Springfield, Ohio, in the $60-$200 range, mostly under $100. Chances are you'll have to sand down the nut and replace or modify the bridge. If you're lucky enough to get one on which you can adjust the neck, you'll need to do that, too. But at least you can see what you're getting into before it arrives at your house. And - guess what - most under-$300 parlor guitars you buy new from China will require about the same amount of work. And brand-new laminate guitars do not sound as good as 60-year old laminate guitars. This is one case where "buy American" make a lot of sense.

Here's one caveat: If you DON'T see a place to adjust the neck at all, and the neck is pulled up or warped at all, skip it. Kay's little "Steel Reinforced Neck" logo, shown to the right, means that a v-shaped piece of heavy sheet steel was shot up the neck lengthwise to add a little strength. It worked more often than you'd think. But when it didn't work and the neck bent anyway, the guitar became a "wall decoration," and no amount of work will change that now.

Examples

To give you some idea of what you can expect, I've listed some guitars that may be worth checking out in the table below.

Here's an irony: I know that there are high-end parlor guitars out there, but there aren't NEARLY as many high-end parlor guitars online as there are mid-range instruments, so that's what most of our chart below reflects. On the bright side, you can get an upper-midrange parlor for about what a mid-midrange dreadnought costs in some lines.

Note: Many fine alternatives, such as the Ibanez AVN3, 5, 9, and 12, the Alvarez AP70, Breedlove Pursuit, and Guild P240 have been left off the list below because they have been discontinued and are hard to find. Many of them are pricier than the guitars listed below when you do find them. To me, the guitars with slotted heads and darker finishes have a more authentic look for 19th-century reenactments.

For a detailed history of these relatively diminutive guitars, please check out Paul's article "The Myth of 'Parlor Guitars.'"

Also, for more information about the 19th-century guitars the smaller and most old-fasioned of the guitars in our list are based on, please check out Paul's article "19th Century Guitars"

When you do buy, whatever you buy, please either:

• Buy from a shop where every guitar is set up by a pro, or
• Have a pro check it out and set it up for you as soon as you get it.

For Historical Reenactments - Because I do historical reenactments, I sometimes shop these guitars to see instruments suitable, say for Civil War eras or other eras. For anyone else interested in such things, I added a column saying which era's guitars they resemble. Martin's size 1, 2, 0, and 00 come up because those instruments set the standard for most American guitars in the 1800s. If you you want to go the extra mile to get the most authentic-looking guitars for, say, a Civil War reenactments, you'll want to step up in price beyond the entry-level guitars to get one with a slotted head.

Note: - If you reenact any period of the 19th century, such as Civil War, cowboy, or Victorian, our article "19th Century Guitars" article will help guide you to the best style(s) of guitar for your particular time and place requirements.

Guitar Model	Illustration (If available)	Solid or Veneer Top	Comparable in size and shape to	# of Frets at Heel	Where Made	Online Availability
Reenactor Note: The guitars below approximate guitars used in the Civil War, Cowboy, and Victorian eras, though some modification would be advisable (at least sanding the logo off the head). These sizes were the most popular until about 1900 and still used by some into the 1920s.
Ibanez PN1NT		Veneer	Martin Size 2 (1833+)	12	China	(The Ibanez AVN3 was a solid-topped version with a slotted head. Sadly, it's discontinued and is hard to find.)
Ibanez PN1MHOPN (Open Pore Mahogany Finish)		Veneer	Martin Size 2(1833+)	12	China	(Unfortunately, Amazon lists these both as the same instrument, so I'm not entirely sure which one you'll get from them.)
Ibanez PN1MHNT (High Gloss Mahogony Finish)		Veneer	Martin Size 2(1833+)	12	China
Luna Gypsy Parlor		Veneer	Martin Size 2 (1833+, though #2s never had 14 frets)	14	China
Luna Gypsy Parlor (Spruce Finish)		Veneer	Martin Size 1?	14	China
Fender CP-60s		Solid Spruce	About Size 00. 14 frets and pick guard imply early-mid 1900s, though.	14	Indonesia
Reenactor Note: The guitars below approximate guitars used in the Cowboy and late Victorian eras, though some modification would be advisable (at least sanding the logo off the head) Size 00s were popular well into the 1900s, though eventually Size 00 and 000 (not shown) were usually used for student guitars.
Ibanez PN12E		Veneer	Size 00 (1874+)	12	China
Alvarez AP66		Solid Mahogany	Size 00 (1854+)	12	China
Dean AXS Parlor		Veneer	14-Fret Size 00 (1934+), Close in appearance to earlier 00 guitars, though.	14	China
Reenactor Note: The guitars below approximate guitars used in the early to mid-1900s. 14-fret versions appeared in 1934. Any would be a good stand-in for 20th-century Blues, Folk or Country guitars.
Fender CP-60s		Solid Spruce	About size 00. 14 frets, Pick guard, and sunburst imply early-mid 1900s. See above for a natural finish.	14	Indonesia
Ibanez AC340OPN		Solid Mahogany	14-Fret Size 00(1934+)	14	China
Yamaha CSF1M with Passive Piezo Pickup		Solid Spruce	14-Fret Size 000(1934+)	14	China
Recording King RPH-P2-TS		Solid	Mid-20th Century Student Guitars	12	China
Gretch Jim Dandy		Veneer	Mid-20th Century Student Guitars	12	China
The section below will contain guitars that are called "parlor guitars" since the term became popular, but they are just student-sized guitars that do not replicate any earlier eras. There are also countless "1/2=sized" and "3/4-sized" cheapies that are now calling themselves "parlor" guitars that are nothing like the guitars played a century or a century-and-a-half ago. In some cases, they are nothing like guitars! Buyer beware!
Martin LX1 "Little Martin"		Pressure-laminated Spruce	Mid-20th Century Student Guitars	14	Mexico
The section below will contain "parlor bases." These are anachronistic for 19th-century reenactments, since the bass guitar wasn't invented until the mid-20th century. But if you want to try to sneak in a bass guitar, consider one that's about the same size of your period-appropriate 6-strings.
Ibanez PNB14E		Veneer (A fretless, solid-topped version called the AVNB1FE has been discontinued and is hard to find.)	Parlor Bass (anachronistic, but you might get away with it)	12	China

Note: - This is a shorter list than I would like because several of the instruments I had listed last year are now discontinued or otherwise nearly unavailable. We are adding new guitars as they become available, so please check back.

Conclusion

Whatever instrument you choose and however you get it into your household, have it checked out while you still have return privileges. Even some of the "better brands" hae quality control issues.

We hope this helps you find a guitar that meets your wants, needs and desires, and that gives you countless hours of enjoyment.

Please check back for updates, and contact us with any questions, corrections, additions, or "reader responses."

Note about Suppliers: While we try to help you get the instruments and other products you want by recommending suppliers with a good record of customer service, all transactions between you and the supplier you chose are governed by the published policies on the supplier's web site. So please print off any order confirmation screens and save copies of invoices, etc., so you can contact the appropriate supplier or invoke the product warranty should any problems occur.*

Note about Ordering Musical Instruments Online: Buy only from folks with a reasonable return policy and be sure to have any musical instrument you ordered online checked over by a professional as soon as you receive it. Every musical instrument has the potential for being damaged in shipment, even if the box looks fine when you get it. In addition, musical instruments shipped across the Pacific have a very high percentage of manufacturing defects. If you look at online reviews, a surprising percentage of the one-star reviews say something like "By the time I realized it was damaged (or had a critical manufacturing defect), the period for returns had run out, so now I'm stuck with a useless piece of . . . . " Yes, the manufacturer should have better quality control, and the store should pack things better. But in the end, you are responsible for making certain that an instrument or product will serve your needs while you still have time to return it.

Note about Buying Musical Instruments New: Before you spend $2000 on an instrument that will be worth $800 once you get it home, check out the used market for that sort of instrument in your area. Depending on where you live, or what kind of instrument you're looking for, it may not be an option. But if you can get a used professional instrument for the same price as a new student instrument, it is often worth taking the risk. Especially if you have a knowledgeable friend who can go along and check it out for you. In fact, many of our pages include links to articles on how to shop for used instruments of various types. However, we recognize that many folks have limited access to good used instruments, and everyone needs to see what is available in the various price ranges. So we do list, when possible, live links to real vendors with a good return policy, in case they're your best choice for getting what you want. Again, once you buy something, your satisfaction is between you and the vendor.

Note about Availability and Pricing: Although I try to keep an eye on things and to recommend products that are reasonably available, the model train market does fluctuate, and any product on this page may change price or become unavailable without prior notice. If you "click through" to see details on a product, and nothing happens at all, or you are routed to a supplier's home page, please let me know and I will remove the product from the online catalog until I can find a replacement or another supplier. For more detailed information about why products seem to come and go and why I have stopped listing prices for most products, please see my article "About Pricing and Availability."

*Here's an irony: every year, I receive about a dozen complaints from folks who have never been to my sites before, angry that a deal between that person and a vendor or manufacturer I recommend went south (in their opinion). They "googled" the product, saw my recommendation or review, then e-mailed me to tell me they were going to sue me or report me to the Better Business Bureau for personally ripping them off by recommending a product they had bought from someone else. Ninety-nine times out of a hundred, the problem is really because the customer didn't read the whole ad, or ordered the wrong thing, or threw away his paperwork and doesn't know where he bought it from, etc. I'm always polite, and sometimes I can even help them get things straightened out with the vendor, but it's not, technically, my problem.

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